A weekend durbar

Another weekend gone, how time flies...

The highlight of this last weekend was going to a durbar on Saturday in Volta Region in the town of Dzodze. I went with a bunch of international students from my drumming class which is the drumming class for foreign students. Our teacher Johnson invited us, and the durbar was held in his home town. He is by far my favorite teacher for he is so passionate about drumming and dancing and he is always smiling. He has been teaching drumming here at Legon for 32 years! The durbar was definitely a most interesting cultural experience.

We took chartered tro-tros to get there and it took a good two and half to three hours, but the ride there at least wasn't too bad. The ride back started off very bumpy and swervy as the driver avoided potholes and who knows what else, and I felt quite nauseous. At that point I also was somewhat dehydrated which couldn't have helped, but I am getting ahead of myself.

Dzodze wasn't a very big town, and when we arrived we were welcomed in what I believe was the compound of Johnson's family, at least he introduced us to two of his sisters, one of whom was the priestess in the nearby shrine. After the durbar we got to go into the shrine, but as nobody explained anythings significance to us, it was rather anti-climatic. STill, when we arrived, they greated us the traditional way, shaking hands with everyone from right to left(it is bad manners to start on the left) and giving us Akepetchie which is the local alcohol and quite strong. Before serving the drink to people though, it is tradition to pour a small amount on the ground as libation to the gods and ancestors.

Then, shortly after that, we were led to where a grand procession was gathered to head to the durbar ground. The chief was there carried in a seat on the heads of four men as the chiefs were carried at the festival at Cape Coast, although here there was only one chief. He looked very regal, and before him were a group of dignified men, walking, who were probably elders for they too wore elaborate head ornaments and carried some ceremonial staffs. In front of these was a group of dancing girls wearing beads on their wrists and ankles and having chalk designs painted on their arms and legs. Then finally in front of these was a small musical troop who set the mood and tempo for the procession. IN addition to the formal procession there were of course a great many other people, including ourselves, who were walking or dancing along around it. Some of the older women were very active in convincing us to join their dancing which of course was quite fun. I think the best part of the afternoon was by far the procession because it had such energy to it, even if one is never quite sure what is going on or the importance of different ceremonial actions.

Eventually the procession came to the durbar ground which is just a field surrounded by chairs and standing room, we got to sit and were soon surrounded by a group of children who entertained and were entertained by us, and I think severely annoyed the older Ghanaians sitting around us. The rest of the afternoon consisted of speeches, predominantly in Ewe the major language of Volta region, music and dancing. At one point we got to dance, which was fun and probably entertained the Ghanaians. I had thought we might also drum, but for whatever reason, we ended up not. The festival was at least in part about palm trees, which grow in abundance in the Volta region and around Dzodze and produce a certain degree of economic return from goods such as palm oil. So some of the ceremonial dancers and most of the cermonial aspects had to do with palm branches. Again there were some dignitaries who poured libation to the gods and ancestors, but the ceremony also started with a Christian prayer... it is interesting to see how the traditional beliefs and Christian beliefs mix(and probably in the north where there are more Muslims, traditional beliefs and Islam mix).

There was one speaker, a government official of some sort, who spoke in English, and he spoke about the theme which was the social development of the region. He spoke of goals laid down the year before, like dormitories at the secondary school and more access to electricity, and of how some had been accomplished while others remained to be more fully realized. He thanked Ghana, president Kuofor, and also urged for peace in the upcoming elections and that no quarrels might break out. I think that is the prayer and hope of every Ghanaian.

While for much of the day I was not exactly sure what was going on, I really enjoyed going, and it was a great opportunity to be a fly on the wall of something so special and yet common to Ghana(special in that it was a big deal, and yet common because I imagined it followed the standard form for durbars) Also, without our teachers invitation, it is probably the sort of thing I would not or could not have done on my own, at least without being some how an intruder. AS JOhnsons guests though, we had a place, and I am sure he had to ask the chiefs permission for us to be there.

Anyways, thats that for now. Tomorrow is a national holiday because its the last day of Ramadan. I think its really cool that Ghana observes both Muslim and Christian holiday!